Alsek River Rafting, Canoeing: Canada, Alaska

The beautiful Alsek River has it's origins only a short distance from the renown Tatshenshini River in northwest Canada and Alaska but the difference between these two historic rivers is dramatic.

Perhaps the best way to articulate the unique features of the Alsek River is to describe a rafting or canoeing journey on it. The first striking aspect of the Alsek is its origins in the alpine hills at Serpentine Creek where we start our Alsek paddling adventures. The broad river valley of the Alsek within Kluane National Park is distinctly representative of high altitude ecosystems. The Alsek also is distinctive due to the spectacular historic and geological events which took place in its valley two centuries ago. In the late half of the 1800's this river was entirely blocked by a sudden movement of the Lowell glacier. The resulting lake backed up over an area of hundreds of square miles, even flooding the current site of Haines Junction. The Alsek’s ice dam remained for a few years until it was finally broached by the river in a cataclysmic event in which the valley below was flushed by a flow of gargantuan proportion. Native history tells of villages that were decimated by the Alsek’s floodwaters. When we travel the river today we see scaring and other effluvial remains that tell the story of this monstrous hydrological event.

While marveling at the unique beauty of the valley and the stunning geological history of the Alsek, we soon reach the iceberg dotted Lowell Lake, the only remaining vestige of the vast flood. Camping here for two nights we take the opportunity to hike up Goat Heard Mountain for panoramic views of the ice fields including the tallest peaks of the St Elias Range. Mountain goats, Dall sheep and other flora and fauna vie for our attention.

After crossing Lowell Lake the mountains crowd inwards leaving narrow canyons. The water rushes through with several distinct rapids and an ever changing vista. With never a dull moment over the next few days, we approach Turnback Canyon and are immediately confronted by the Tweedsmuir, the largest of all the glaciers on our Alsek trip. Acting like a huge funnel, it forces the river into a narrow confine crowding it into a deep gorge known as Turnback Canyon. Downstream the river plunges through a ten mile series of horrendous rapids. Though Turnback Canyon has been kayaked several times, it is still considered to be unsafe for rafts. Our camp is above Turnback Canyon, at the foot of the glacier.

The never ending drama of the trip continues to unfold the following day as a helicopter arrives at our camp to begin ferrying us, and our equipment around Turnback Canyon. On the short flight we are afforded a great view of the area and the famous rapids that few have seen. On the other side of the Canyon we will inflate and re-rig the boats and continue downstream.

Passing the Vern Ritchie and Battle Glaciers, we camp at the confluence of the Tatshenshini and Alsek Rivers. At the confluence, these two historic rivers swell to stretch nearly three miles wide, surging through braided channels that criss-cross the valley. The resulting union bears the name Alsek River and soon enters the State of Alaska and Glacier Bay National Park.

On a giant bend that can be seen from space, we are encircled by peaks in a stunning amphitheatre of glacial ice and rock. From this point we view the crystal blue hues of Walker Glacier, a place where we actually hike on the surface of this ancient ice and experience the unique environment of deep crevasses and jagged seracs and ice falls.

Floating downstream we have a view of more than 20 glaciers as we make our way down to the place where the Alsek and Grand Plateau Glaciers come together at the river to form an eight mile wide face of ice. We camp at Alsek Lake which was formed by the gouging action of the glaciers resulting in the largest lake found anywhere in Glacier Bay Park.

The only thing breaking the mystical spell of the iceberg filled lake with the mountain backdrop is the frequent explosive crescendos of calving glaciers spawning multi ton icebergs. Overseeing the phenomenon is Mt. Fairweather whose ice clad summit soars over 15,000 feet above our camp.

Enjoying and exploring the lake is a delight to all of the senses. The final leg of our memorable trip is from Alsek Lake to Dry Bay on the Gulf of Alaska. At the tiny commercial fishing enclave we are met by small charter planes for the flight back to Whitehorse with a plane load of memories.

Nahanni River Adventures, Nahanni offers exceptional expeditions by raft and canoe on the great rivers from Alaska to Nunavut including: South Nahanni River, Tatshenshini River, Alsek River, Firth River, Snake River, Wind River, Stikine River, Burnside River, Coppermine River, Horton River, Mountain River, Yukon River, Taku River, Gataga River and Sea Kayaking and whale watching at Point Adolphus, Alaska, over-looking Glacier Bay National Park.

Our expeditions encompass Nahanni National Park (South Nahanni River), Kluane National Park (Alsek River), Ivvavik National Park (Firth River), Glacier Bay National Park (Alsek River), Herschel Island Territorial Park (Firth River).

Nahanni River Adventures operates in Alaska (United States of America), Yukon Territory, Northwest Territories, Nunavut and British Columbia (Canada).

Nahanni.com is the online presence of the company, Nahanni River Adventures Ltd.

Nahanni River Adventures works with the Canadian Parks and Wilderness Society to ensure the environmental integrity of our wild places.

Neil Hartling, founder of Nahanni River Adventures, is also the author of: Nahanni, River of Gold...River of Dreams. Alaska to Nunavut - The Great Rivers. Nahanni River Guide. These books may all be purchased through Nahanni.com.

Common misspellings of the name are Nahani, Nahannie, Nahanie, Nahoni, Nahonni.
Nahanni River Adventures.