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The Thomsen RiverPrint This Page

ABOUT THE THOMSEN RIVER
flowersBanks Island — the western most island in the Canadian Arctic Archipelago — is the setting for this kayak expedition in one of the world's newest national parks. Known as Aulavik, “a place where people travel”, this park is located on the north-central quadrant of Banks Island; it encompasses 12,275 square kilometers of wilderness, wildlife and windswept tundra. Running through the heart of Aulavik National Park is the Thomsen River, a serene and slowly meandering waterway, which is reputed to be one of the world’s most northerly navigable rivers. Located more than 1000 kilometers (600 miles) north of the Arctic Circle, the ecological mysteries and the intriguing human history of Aulavik makes a journey along the Thomsen River especially compelling.

About Inuvik
Inuvik is a modern Arctic town. There are grocery stores, restaurants, medical clinic, gift stores etc. There is a Canadian Imperial Bank of Commerce with a bank machine. You will enjoy exploring Inuvik after your Thomsen River trip, but there will not be time to go into Inuvik prior to the trip. The airport is located out of town and we will be boarding our charter aircraft immediately after arrival in Inuvik. You can get details on Inuvik from the town website www.inuvik.ca

Inuvik is 7 hours behind of Greenwich Mean Time, or on Mountain time.

Natural history:
The profusion of wildflowers amid the lush sedges and grasslands that grace the shorelines of the Thomsen River in late June and July offers remarkable Arctic scenery. During the brief Arctic summer on Banks Island, the sun remains high in the sky, bathing the land in continuous daylight. Over 150 species of plants have been documented in the park, including ground-hugging willows, brilliant fields of purple broad-leafed willow herb, and stands of Arctic poppies.

One of the few Arctic islands left largely unscarred by the last glaciation, Banks Island evolved as an oasis and refuge for Arctic wildlife. More than half of the world’s population of muskoxen reside on Banks Island today, a population of some 70,000 animals. It is estimated that 25% of this population grazes along the lush valley corridor of the Thomsen River in Aulavik National Park. Just 70 years ago, muskoxen were on the brink of extinction, their numbers depleted by hide hunters, whalers, explorers and subsistence hunters. Today oomingmak—Inuktitut for “the bearded one”—has made a remarkable recovery, recolonising much of its historic range on Banks Island and elsewhere in Arctic Canada.

Small herds of Peary Caribou—the tiniest race of caribou, a sub-species which is believed to be perched on the brink of extinction—pass through the park each year on migration between wintering grounds and summer calving grounds. Roaming packs of Arctic wolves hunt the muskoxen and caribou of Aulavik, and wolf encounters are not uncommon. The howl of a wolf is one of those remarkable events that instantly transforms the moment into something magical: a haunting sound that penetrates deep into the soul, leaving lasting memories. Other mammals found in Aulavik National Park include Arctic fox, Arctic hare, ermine and two species of lemmings. Watery meadows, ox-bow lakes, and stretches of tundra ponds make perfect habitat for tundra-nesting birds, and field surveys indicate that over forty species of birds nest within the National Park. These include Snowy owls, gyr and peregrine falcons, Rough-legged hawks, 3 species of both loons and jaegers, Arctic terns, Sabine’s gulls, red phalaropes and Sandhill cranes. The Thomsen River corridor between Muskox River and Castel Bay is a designated National Migratory Bird Sanctuary for the shorebirds, loons, eiders and geese found nesting here.

Human history:
Along the riverPrehistoric peoples appear to have occupied Banks Island intermittently for over 3,000 years, sustaining themselves primarily on muskoxen, Peary caribou and bowhead whales. Archaeologists believe that a period of cooling known as the 'Little Ice Age', drove the Thule-culture people southward off the island during the seventeenth century. It was not until the close of this climatic cooling episode that Inuit people began to return to the island, a return that coincided with the opening chapter in the recorded history of Banks Island.

Under the command of Captain Robert McClure, the HMS Investigator was sent out from England in 1850 to search for the lost Franklin expedition by way of the Bering and Beaufort seas. After spending a winter frozen into the ice along the east coast of Banks Island, McClure circumnavigated the island by way of its western and northern coastlines to reach Viscount Melville Sound. By September of 1851, Investigator had reached the mouth of the Thomsen River, but ice conditions prevented McClure from sailing much farther. He took shelter in Mercy Bay and prepared his ship to spend another winter locked in the frigid grip of the Arctic ice. Unfortunately, the ship was never again released from the ice. By the time a sledging party miraculously rescued the expedition in the spring of 1853, McClure and his entire crew had been stranded two winters in Mercy Bay and had very nearly perished from scurvy.

It was the iron and copper articles left behind with the ship at Mercy Bay which attracted the Copper Inuit from Victoria Island—these people traveled over the sea ice to Banks Island to scavenge metal and wood for nearly 50 years afterwards. Many scientists now believe that the subsistence hunting activity associated with this period of intensive migration of Inuit across the island, may well have led to the near collapse of the muskoxen population on Banks Island by the turn of the 20th century.

While on this kayak expedition, we will see signs of these people who came before us, signs that are still clearly evident. Climbing up to almost any high point of land, we’ll encounter an assortment of meat caches, tent rings, and scattered remains from earlier visitors, features which all speak of the nomadic spirit of those who first came to this land of solitude.

The river and the expedition:
The Thomsen River is a gently flowing stream that experiences a brief high water period in early July. The only sources of water are runoff from seasonal snowmelt and rain. There is no actual whitewater on the river, although depending on water levels, there are a few minor stretches of faster water. We will start our kayaking expedition in the upper reaches of the Thomsen River at 73°N latitude, and will take two weeks to paddle 150 kilometers northward through this Arctic oasis to Castel Bay on the north coast of the island. Hills become decidedly higher as the river flows further northward, and the terrain gets ever more lush. We will plan to move camp on most days—wind and weather permitting — paddling 3 to 4 hours a day, which allows us plenty of time for hiking amongst carpets of blooming flowers, exploring the open rolling hills and vast vistas, and observing wildlife, permafrost features and archeological sites.

All participants on the Thomsen River trip will fly into Inuvik from Edmonton/Yellowknife. From Inuvik, each group boards a chartered Twin Otter aircraft for the 750 kilometre (nearly 500 miles) flight northeast into our landing site on Banks Island, making a brief refueling and visiting stop at Sachs Harbour, the sole community on the island. (Many of our groups have spotted Bowhead and Beluga whales during the flight in over the Amundsen Gulf.) At the end of the paddling trip, our charter aircraft will meet us at our appointed pick-up site on the lower Thomsen River for the return flight back into Inuvik. Participants will overnight in Inuvik prior to catching the jet back to Edmonton.

The drama in this magnificent Arctic landscape, accented by the rich colours exposed in the terrain, will leave you awestruck and inspired to photograph, and our time in Aulavik National Park will be one of discovery and great beauty as we join the ranks of a select few who have traveled here.

THE WATER
The Thomsen River is shallow and crystal clear until it reaches the confluence of the silt-laden Abel River. The current flow is moderate overall, and on wider stretches of the river it can be quite slow. The main river channel varies in depth from one to three meters in most places, but occasionally the river breaks into channels, which can be shallow and tricky to navigate.

The Thomsen River is rated as a Grade 1 river under the six-part International River Classification System. Grade 1 rivers are easy paddling from beginning to end, with occasional riffles, but nothing that merits a technical rating. Strong winds can, however, occasionally produce some high waves on the Thomsen River and will limit our progress downriver.

Preparing Physically
This is an active paddling trip with a flexible itinerary; thus the number of miles paddled every day depends on our group and the local weather and river conditions. We should expect not to paddle more that 3-5 hours a day—we also want to explore the land on foot and have time to photograph and enjoy the local wildlife. Generally, our paddling philosophy is not to "cover miles" for the sake of covering miles, but to follow an interesting route and explore as we go along.

That said, you’ll get the most enjoyment out of the trip if you are in relatively good physical shape. The best exercise for paddling is to go paddling! Try to go out and paddle in your nearest lake or closest seashore and strengthen your abdominal, leg, arm and shoulder muscles. You might consider calling some local kayak outfitters and take day/weekend trips with them. The better your condition, the more you will enjoy your vacation. Aerobic exercises like swimming and cross-country skiing are great alternatives to get in shape for paddling.

If you have chronic back problems and/or have problems sitting down in a kayak seat for long periods of time, we recommend that you call our office to discuss if this is an appropriate trip for you or what we can do to make the paddling enjoyable for you.

Weather & Climate
crossingJune and July are generally very pleasant in this part of the Arctic; summer temperatures can soar as high as 25°C (77°F), although near-freezing temperatures and snow are just as likely. While average temperatures generally vary from 3°C to 10°C (37°F to 50°F), it should be noted that wind is almost a constant factor and severe winds can be expected to occur during some of our time on Banks Island. A cold wind combined with cloud cover can make it quite cool, and you will want to have warm layers to put on such as neck warmer, warm winter gloves and a down jacket that fits under a wind proof, rain proof jacket with hood.

The weather at hand will always determine our decision on where the expedition goes and what we will do on any given day; accordingly, participants should always be prepared for changes in the day-to-day travel itinerary.

It should be noted that weather in Inuvik and Sach’s Harbour can be the deciding factor in the timing of flights both to and from your Thomsen River trip, and that there is always the possibility of unscheduled delays for our charter aircraft. As each participant must be prepared to bear any costs which may be associated with delayed departures of chartered or scheduled aircraft, such as extra hotel accommodation and air travel change fees, we highly recommend that you purchase trip cancellation and interruption insurance.

For the best, up-to-date global weather information, you can check Weather Underground and use Aulavik National Park as the location.

Fishing
The Thomsen River is known for its Char fishing. You may want to try your hand! Every one fishing will need a permit available through the National Park office in Inuvik for $34.30 Bring a 4 or 5 piece collapsible fishing rod with 20 lb test. We’ve had luck using a 4 inch sized 5 of Diamonds, Red Devil, and a red spoon with black dots.

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Canadian River Expeditions
Nahanni River Adventures
CANADIAN RIVER EXPEDITIONS &
NAHANNI RIVER ADVENTURES

PO Box 31203 Whitehorse, Yukon, Canada Y1A 5P7
Phone (867) 668-3180 | Fax (867) 668-3056

RESERVATION: 1 (800) 297-6927
info@nahanni.com
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Nahanni River Adventures, Nahanni offers exceptional expeditions by raft and canoe on the great rivers from Alaska to Nunavut including: South Nahanni River, Tatshenshini River, Alsek River, Firth River, Snake River, Wind River, Stikine River, Burnside River, Coppermine River, Horton River, Mountain River, Yukon River, Taku River, Gataga River and Sea Kayaking and whale watching at Point Adolphus, Alaska, over-looking Glacier Bay National Park.

Our expeditions encompass Nahanni National Park (South Nahanni River), Kluane National Park (Alsek River), Ivvavik National Park (Firth River), Glacier Bay National Park (Alsek River), Herschel Island Territorial Park (Firth River).

Nahanni River Adventures operates in Alaska (United States of America), Yukon Territory, Northwest Territories, Nunavut and British Columbia (Canada).

Nahanni.com is the online presence of the company, Nahanni River Adventures Ltd.

Nahanni River Adventures works with the Canadian Parks and Wilderness Society to ensure the environmental integrity of our wild places.

Neil Hartling, founder of Nahanni River Adventures, is also the author of: Nahanni, River of Gold...River of Dreams. Alaska to Nunavut - The Great Rivers. Nahanni River Guide. These books may all be purchased through Nahanni.com.

Common misspellings of the name are Nahani, Nahannie, Nahanie, Nahoni, Nahonni.
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