Wind River, Yukon, Canada: Canoeing | Canadian River Expeditions

The Wind River in Canada’s Yukon Territory is a beautiful and inviting watercourse for any canoeist who possesses some basic whitewater skills. To reach the Wind River, paddlers usually take a day to drive from Whitehorse to the remote mining town of Mayo. At a floatplane base on the Stewart River, canoes, food, gear and canoeists are loaded into a Single Otter aircraft. The ensuing flight is a dramatic introduction to the Wernecke Mountains. Peaks ranging from 5,000 to 6,000 feet (1650 to 1980 m) loom below the bush plane, make this flight seeing fun, a memorable highlight of a Wind River paddling trip. Landing at McClusky Lake, the pilot bids good-bye and as the drone of the departing plane fades into the distance, the peaceful solitude of wilderness emerges. Breezes blow through the willows and grasses, grayling jump in the lake and the happy jabber of fellow trip companions, fill the air with laughter. The mountain-ringed lake provides an opportunity to practice canoe skills before embarking on the river and tempting hiking routes and great fishing vie for any spare time on a Wind River paddling adventure.

A short portage trail links the lake to the Wind River. The Wind is known for its crystal clear water. In these upper reaches, the channel is narrow, gravely, shallow and braided. Canoeists floating on the current enjoy an uncommonly vivid view of the patina of boulders and pebbles that appear to slip by beneath the boat. The ragged Rackla Range dominates the skyline and the gradient of the river is swift but not too intimidating for experienced canoeists.

The vicinity of Bond Creek offers a beautiful backdrop for our campsite and a hike into the alpine treats us to panoramic vistas. The sights, sounds and smells associated with camping on the river are delightful. While dry driftwood crackles in the firebox, the guides create baked delicacies in cast aluminum Dutch ovens. Campers can be seen lazing in the sun reading books, casting a fishing line into an eddy or roaming the vicinity with binoculars seeking the next bird sighting. In July, the sun sets well after midnight and it is easy to loose track of time and end up in bed much later than ones’ habitual time.

On the Wind River, the scenery continues to unfold in diverse tableaus. Bear River contributes to the flow where it meets the Wind. The name reminds everyone to be watchful for a sighting of the elusive grizzly. Royal Mountain appears on the horizon with regal splendor.

On it’s eastern shore the Wind courses beneath steep mountain slopes. Farther downstream, at the confluence with the Little Wind River, it squeezes out of the confines of the Illtyd Range into a broader, sprawling valley. At Hungry Creek, the landscape is dominated by Mount Deception.

History of the Wind River
One can’t help but wonder what stories loom behind these interesting names. In truth, the pleasures enjoyed by modern river travelers on the Wind were not shared by some past visitors to this valley.

A hundred years ago, at the time of the great Klondike Gold Rush, the southern travelers who found themselves wintering on the Wind were not enthused. A small band of stampeders were forced to spend the winter at a rough camp, which they named Wind City. It was home to between 50 to 80 people during the winter of 1898-99. Following the grueling winter those people continued upstream on the Wind, over the pass to the Stewart River and then downstream to Dawson City. Many groups have searched for the remaining artifacts of Wind City but it seems that it has been washed away by the shifting channels and spring floods of the river.

“A Lost Patrol”

You will leave tomorrow morning for a patrol over the Fort McPherson trail, to locate the whereabouts of Inspector Fitzgerald’s party. Indians from McPherson reported him on New Year’s Day at Mountain Creek about 20 days to Dawson. I understand that at Hart River Divide no matter what route he took, he would have to cross this divide. I think it would be advisable to make for this point and take up his trail from there. I cannot give you any specific instructions; you will have to be guided by circumstances and your own judgment, bearing in mind that nothing is to stand in your way until you have got in touch with his party.

--Orders received by W.J.D Dempster of the Royal North-West Mounted Police from Superintendent A.E. Snyder, in command of B Division of the Mounties, February 27, 1911.

As the river approaches the Peel River, the valley bottom continues to broaden and is heavily forested. It was in this region that another famous group traveled the river, but in the dark of winter. In December of 1910, Inspector Francis J.Fitzgerald of the North-West Mounted Police and his fabled “Lost Patrol” began their journey by dogsled, far away on Herschel Island, at the mouth of the Firth River. For some reason they neglected to engage a native guide for the remaining 475 mile (760 kilometer) leg, when they passed through the post of Fort McPherson. This was to lead to their peril. In the dark of the month of January, they floundered in the Wind River Valley, making vain attempts on the wrong tributaries to cross over into the Stewart River drainage. Finally, nearing the end of their supplies and realizing their error, they turned back. Weather and trail conditions conspired against them. Temperatures dropped to -65 F below zero and the group finally perished only 70 miles (112 km) short of Fort McPherson. Their grim fate was discovered by a rescue party, led by Corporal W. J. D. Dempster from Dawson City. The men of the patrol are buried in Fort McPherson on the Peel River, and Dempster was honored with having Canada’s most northerly highway named after him.

Thankfully, canoeists benefit from the summer reality that the river flows downhill. The opportunities for becoming lost are few and the chances of a fate like the lost patrol are remote. As long as one can navigate the many braids of the Wind’s channels, the Peel River inevitably looms ahead. Once on the Peel, the current courses past the junction with the Bonnet Plume and Snake Rivers. After negotiating a short canyon, paddlers pull ashore on a gravely shoal named Taco Bar. Here the river is deep enough to safely accommodate the floats of the Otter landing on the river. Another spectacular flight delivers the travelers back to Mayo with a cargo of fond memories.

Nahanni River Adventures, Nahanni offers exceptional expeditions by raft and canoe on the great rivers from Alaska to Nunavut including: South Nahanni River, Tatshenshini River, Alsek River, Firth River, Snake River, Wind River, Stikine River, Burnside River, Coppermine River, Horton River, Mountain River, Yukon River, Taku River, Gataga River and Sea Kayaking and whale watching at Point Adolphus, Alaska, over-looking Glacier Bay National Park.

Our expeditions encompass Nahanni National Park (South Nahanni River), Kluane National Park (Alsek River), Ivvavik National Park (Firth River), Glacier Bay National Park (Alsek River), Herschel Island Territorial Park (Firth River).

Nahanni River Adventures operates in Alaska (United States of America), Yukon Territory, Northwest Territories, Nunavut and British Columbia (Canada).

Nahanni.com is the online presence of the company, Nahanni River Adventures Ltd.

Nahanni River Adventures works with the Canadian Parks and Wilderness Society to ensure the environmental integrity of our wild places.

Neil Hartling, founder of Nahanni River Adventures, is also the author of: Nahanni, River of Gold...River of Dreams. Alaska to Nunavut - The Great Rivers. Nahanni River Guide. These books may all be purchased through Nahanni.com.

Common misspellings of the name are Nahani, Nahannie, Nahanie, Nahoni, Nahonni.
Nahanni River Adventures.