Print this piece off and bring it with you for reference on your trip.
Maximizing your wilderness experience on the Nahanni
This book is intended as a compliment to Nahanni River Guide and the Parks Canada Waterproof map.
I had heard a thing or two now about this strange river with the beautiful name. Hundred’s of miles away, at Fort Smith on the Slave River, someone had heard that I was headed for the South Nahanni.
“ So you’re going up the Big Nahanni? Boy, you’ve bitten off something this time! They say there’s canyons in there thousands of feet deep, and water coming through faster’n hell.”
“But people have got through haven’t they?”
“Oh, I guess they have just got through – years ago. But canyons and sheer, thousands of feet!”
“If people have got through, there must surely be some ledges or something where a man can tie a canoe and camp and sleep?”
“I don’t know. There ain’t many that have come back to tell about it. Men vanish in that country. There was some prospectors murdered in there not so long ago, and down the river they say it’s a damned good country to keep clear of…”
Advice given Raymond Patterson before his first Nahanni expedition
The South Nahanni River flows through nearly 600 km of diverse wilderness. If you are planning a Nahanni Expedition, you already know of the many world class features through which it flows.
The reputation of the Nahanni has aided in its protection, but it has also attracted visitors. Most wilderness river travelers wish to have a remote experience, with as little contact with other groups as possible.
This guide is intended to provide planning tips that will help minimize interaction between groups and maximize your enjoyment of the wilderness experience.
On average, 500 visitors in 40 groups, travel the Nahanni. Guided groups and non-guided groups have different patterns and requirements. By knowing these, it is possible to conduct your trip to minimize interaction with other groups. This guide is intended to provide planning tips that will help minimize interaction between groups and maximize your enjoyment of the wilderness experience.
The outfitted groups are usually close to 15 people total. This means that there are fewer opportunities for interaction per group. Non-guided groups tend to be smaller and there are more of them, with greater likelihood per group of interaction with other groups.
Parks Canada, in partnership with the Nahanni River Outfitters Association, has worked to smooth the flow of park visitors to provide the best wilderness experience for everyone, as well as minimize environmental impact.
The focal point for the system is Virginia Falls. Each group is allowed to camp at the falls for a maximum of 2 nights. These nights are pre-determined through the reservation process. That you can expect to see others at Virginia Falls is no surprise as it is a highlight of Nahanni National Park Reserve and World Heritage Site. Generally, above and below the falls, it is possible for groups to spread out and camp out of view of others.
This portion of the river is the least traveled. It is vast and wild, with ample room to spread out and most groups report seeing very few or no people until reaching the Park. If you are beginning at the Moose Ponds (the headwaters of the South Nahanni), you can easily check with Parks Canada, the outfitters and the charter companies to see when other groups are starting. Most groups attempt to keep a minimum of 24 hours apart for launch dates on the upper river.
This marks the beginning of the National Park and the starting point of a few more trips.
Less than 20% of trips begin here.
In the months of July and August Parks Canada staff are based at the Wardens Cabin at Rabbit Kettle Lake is staffed and it is a mandatory check in point for groups paddling the river. The staff at this location have a wealth of knowledge and can provide some useful information about conditions down stream. Staff also offer guided hikes to Rabbitkettle Hot Springs. It is rare to encounter other groups in the vicinity of Rabbitkettle Lake. When planning, most groups try to keep a minimum of 24 hours spacing between launch dates of other groups.
The river meanders through this broad mountain valley before taking the plunge over Virginia Falls and speeding up. Some of the country is thickly vegetated and damp. There are many good options for small group camping. It is more limited for large groups. Large groups will likely head for Flood Creek as a half way camp. Smaller groups should keep this in mind.
In July and August Parks Canada staff are based at Virginia Falls. All visitors who have not done so in Fort Simpson or Rabbitketle Lake must participate in mandatory Park Registration here. Camping at Virginia Falls is limited to designated campsites. The layout was designed to comfortably contain the full compliment of permitted groups. This requires groups to be considerate when selecting a location for their kitchen and placement of tents. Try to keep your “camp footprint” as small and tight as possible. With others doing the same, there will be ample room for everyone. You will have plenty of room to spread out down river!
Parks Canada offers an Aboriginal Heritage Presentation Program including guided hikes and evening campfire programs at Virginia Falls. Bring your mug for some Labrador tea! Local students and community members greet park visitors and share local history and lore of their ancestral presence in the area. They also serve as a helpful resource to ensure that things flow smoothly in the camping area at Virginia Falls. On a lay-over day at the Falls you may join them for an interpretive hike. Each evening they host a campfire session with stories of First Nations in the area.
If you do not wish this type of contact on your trip, you may opt to arrive at the falls, portage and depart in the same day. This is rarely done, and it means that you will miss some very interesting information, but it is possible.
The raft companies require wheelbarrow carts to portage their rafts and related gear. When you are portaging, please do not ask to use these as the guides depend on them for their livelihood.
This is a large group spot. There are excellent small group locations above and below. Avoid Marengo if you don’t want to camp with others.
Further down river there are a number of good camping locations below Clearwater and Wrigley Creeks on river left.
As the valley broadens above and below the Flat River, small group options abound on river left and right. There are numerous gravel bars and islands that make for ideal camping, just above the confluence with the Flat River. The view from these gravel bars is truly spectacular, and this serves as a brilliant location to remember the drama of 4th Canyon.
This is a large group spot and the open area at the bottom of the eddy will likely be a destination for guided trips. If you camp here, expect lots of company. There are many excellent small group locations on beaches and creek mouths upstream. If you want to plan a hike to the top of The Gate, one option is to camp upstream and arrive at The Gate for a mid day hike. You can then camp downriver in the evening. There is a small group camp area at the top of the large eddy at The Gate, upstream of the main site. It is not as nice as the spots upriver, but can be a point of refuge if you end up at The Gate.
Downstream of The Gate there are numerous camping sites along both sides of the river. Most of these sites are on gravel bars where breezes keep the bugs at bay.
Deadmen Valley has many camping options for small groups, from the mouth of Second Canyon to the entrance of First Canyon.
Prairie Creek alluvial fan is a beautiful, open expanse. It offers a site for a large group but is not a good place to camp if you want privacy. If you elect to camp there, you must be content with other campers in view.
Some groups have camped at the old Forestry/Paddle Cabin on river right. This site is frequented by almost every group that paddles the river, although usually only to visit the cabin ans sign the register. There is room to camp, and a nice view, but you can expect a lot of visitors.
The mouth of Lafferty Creek Canyon has two campsites, one at the upstream end of the fan and one on the downstream. Each is visible from the other and you can anticipate that larger groups will have this area as a destination. Depending on water levels, there are myriad good beaches and creek mouths for camping in First Canyon apart from Lafferty Creek.
Another Nahanni highlight. Expect to see others here. Most groups don’t camp at the springs but instead stop for a soak and move on. In August camping is not allowed due to the presence of bears attracted to an abundance of berries.
The Splits is one of the most under appreciated stretches of the South Nahanni River. The lush broad valley is rich habitat for wildlife. Campsites abound, especially later in the season as the water level drops.
The last big campsite is found on river left, downstream of a prominent mass of deadheads in a narrowing of the main channel. You will know this deadhead collection when you see it! You can expect other groups camping at that last big gravel beach. If you camp there first, others may camp alongside you, as the options are not great below.
This is a popular stop for most river travelers and offers a unique opportunity to view a remote community that has no road access. There is a campground with cooking shelter and pit toilets at the upstream end of the community (before the first buildings). If you do camp here, expect other visitors and the possibility of local traffic.
Some groups visit the village and then continue on to camp on Swan Point.
Remember to de-register from the Park!
Best wishes for a Nahanni experience that you will cherish for the rest of your life!
Comments and suggestions on the DRAFT Guide may be directed to: info@nahanni.com